First impression ... an amazing place!
Imposing baroque churches
... the churches are most frequently perched on the hills
... and the hills are pretty steep!
Donkeys remain one of the most effective ways to transport wood across the slippy cobblestones
last impression ... an amazing place!!
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We ventured back into the mountains of Minas Gerais and stayed in the picturesque town of Ouro Preto. We survived the overnight coach journey and found ourselves in the bus station overlooking the town at 5.30 am. From this hilltop we could see over half a dozen huge, baroque churches peering out through the clouds that were scurrying passed. During the two days we stopped in the town, we discovered fourteen of these churches that dominate the eighteenth century buildings of the town.
When we donned helmets to walk into a mineshaft, we did not come across a great deal of gold. But during the eightieth century the region around Ouro Preto produced two thirds of the world’s gold. The Portages built a major ‘Casa dos Contos’ (a mint) which has now become one of the best museums in the town. Artist and craftsmen were attracted into this wealthy centre and much of their handiwork is still seen around Ouro Preto.
The most famous craftsman and architect from this period was Aleijadinho (Portuguese for ‘little cripple’). The church of São Francisco de Assis contains much of his elaborate sculpture and the ceiling contains a much later superb painting that we were not allowed to photograph. We walked like latterday pilgrims, up and down steep hills, visiting churches and museums occasionally shielding behind our umbrellas. The locals seem to manage to walk on the cobblestones in flat open sandals, we needed trainers to walk in. They seem a tough hardy lot up there in the mountains!
Being an independent lot, it is not surprising to discover that the first revolt against the Portuguese was started in Ouro Preto led by a dentist (Portuguese ‘Tiradentes’ = teeth puller) named Xavier. The main square, Tiradentes Square, is dominated by the Museu da Inconfidencia which commemorates his unsuccessful rebellion. The outside was more impressive than the contents of this museum. Our pousada was just around the corner and we had impressive views of the town from our balcony. We left this spectacular town to the accompaniment of a massive lightning storm. Quite a place to remember!
When we donned helmets to walk into a mineshaft, we did not come across a great deal of gold. But during the eightieth century the region around Ouro Preto produced two thirds of the world’s gold. The Portages built a major ‘Casa dos Contos’ (a mint) which has now become one of the best museums in the town. Artist and craftsmen were attracted into this wealthy centre and much of their handiwork is still seen around Ouro Preto.
The most famous craftsman and architect from this period was Aleijadinho (Portuguese for ‘little cripple’). The church of São Francisco de Assis contains much of his elaborate sculpture and the ceiling contains a much later superb painting that we were not allowed to photograph. We walked like latterday pilgrims, up and down steep hills, visiting churches and museums occasionally shielding behind our umbrellas. The locals seem to manage to walk on the cobblestones in flat open sandals, we needed trainers to walk in. They seem a tough hardy lot up there in the mountains!
Being an independent lot, it is not surprising to discover that the first revolt against the Portuguese was started in Ouro Preto led by a dentist (Portuguese ‘Tiradentes’ = teeth puller) named Xavier. The main square, Tiradentes Square, is dominated by the Museu da Inconfidencia which commemorates his unsuccessful rebellion. The outside was more impressive than the contents of this museum. Our pousada was just around the corner and we had impressive views of the town from our balcony. We left this spectacular town to the accompaniment of a massive lightning storm. Quite a place to remember!
3 comments:
Good to see you are getting about. Ouro Preto looks pretty impressive. Even more impressive is the overnight coach journey.
Shame we missed the boat trip.
Hi guys, I a bit worried, I just heard of an epidemic of "dengue" in Rio.
I hope you're ok.
Be careful to mosquitos bites.
See here or here
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